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When Julia goes to dinner in San Francisco with James Beard and her editor Judith Jones, von Brandenstein conceived the cozy restaurant as an early homage to Alice Waters’ influential Chez Panisse. Although they’re never seen cooked on the show, Tobin followed Julia’s recipe to make sweetbreads with capers and butter. She sourced them from Savenor’s Butcher Shop, the same place where Julia Child had shopped. Then there were the sweetbreads - the slimy and off-putting-looking cow glands are an acquired taste for most, but Tobin cooked them for the team anyway. “He was just so excited to make bread,” Tobin remembers. They ended up baking close to 100 loaves for the scene in which Paul Child and Avis take on the breadmaking duties while Julia is otherwise occupied.ĭavid Hyde Pierce, who plays Julia’s husband, Paul, also got into the act, practicing his breadmaking at home. At first, Borelli was hesitant about baking loaves that were burn or misshapen, since bakers are typically perfectionists. One of Tobin’s assistants, Brianna Borelli, had worked with her on the food styling for “Little Women” and was a master baker. “She’s so playful and delightful and open,” Tobin says. Tobin says director Melanie Mayron’s background in stand-up comedy really helped the “Breads” episode stand out. “In that space we had a company that outfitted me with a walk-in refrigerator, a 12-top cooking surface and we had prep areas, and space for COVID sanitary precautions,” says Tobin, a contrast with some of her other jobs where she had to work in a tent or a block away from the filming location.ĭavid Hyde Pierce and Fiona Glascott in the “Breads” episode HBO Max The ‘Breads’ Episode On the other side of the Boston warehouse that served as the soundstage was the working kitchen where Tobin created the dishes that Julia Child was demonstrating on TV. “It was his idea to add an alcove for her to taste the dishes she had just made and say ‘bon appetit,’” says von Brandenstein. Julia’s kitchen set at WGBH was based on Paul Child’s actual design. We installed lipstick cameras inside these big machines and were able to get the image we could show in the control room.” “The guys from the museum came up and became the crew of the television station. Schleinig sourced vintage television equipment from Rhode Island’s Museum of Broadcast Technology. “He was of immense help,” von Brandenstein says. The art department had a secret weapon in Robert Schleinig, a set dresser who, as a young man, had actually worked at WGBH where Child taped her shows.
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The attention to detail was so scrupulous that von Brandenstein even had the Childs’ “very unusual, very comfortable” mid-century kitchen chairs re-created that the couple had made in Norway and brought to America when they returned. Those carefully polished pots hung on a replica of Julia’s famous pegboard wall.
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One set decorator had assembled a “vast quantity of copper” over the years, von Brandenstein says. “We wanted to be true to the first years, then gradually introduce an older and more somber note.” “It’s very Julia,” von Brandenstein says of the cheerfully colored cabinets. She was able to see the original plans, which showed the strong blue, pink and yellow colors it was painted in. One of von Brandenstein’s first stops was the Smithsonian in Washington, D.C., where the Childs’ Cambridge kitchen is preserved. Sarah Lancashire as Julia Child in the WGBH studio Julia’s Kitchen